This part of the engine drop process is a little more intensive than the drop prep. From here on out, it's helpful to have friend to lend a hand. As always, be sure to have the proper tools for the job. If you need something, go to a store and get it. Be very careful supporting the car. A good jack, and set of jackstands are a must.
1. Those are 2 2x12 boards 2.5 feet long. When raising the car up and down, it rolls back and forth. The more level the car when doing the actual drop the easier to get it out. Thanks to Carl Crawford for this idea.
Wheels under the car when possible are a good idea in case something really bad happens. This is a good time to use jack stands under the rear of the car (in front of the rear wheels, not pictured).
2. Time to remove the axles. This will involve many steps. First, set the parking brake, and take the rear wheels off.
A: Take the cotter pins and axle end caps off.
Parking brake still on right? It's 32mm socket and breaker bar time. Jeez.
This might help so the socket doesn't slip off like it did on me multiple times. The pressure from the jack keeps the socket on the bolt where it would normally want to torque/twist off.
B: OPTIONALLY Remove the rear brakes. You do not have to do this if you are not changing your brakes out. I was putting 93 style brakes on, so now was a good time. Skip to C: if you do not need to do this.
This is a little trick to get more leverage out of your wrenches I learned from a local MR2-NW guy, Jay Atienza. Apparently he learned it in the Air Force. It's probably common knowledge???
Bolt removed.
Lift the caliper up, and push it towards the engine to remove from the bracket.
It pushes straight off but you might have to do a little twisting to get there.
Remove the rear brake bracket. 2 bolts.
Remove the discs, the first bolt you took off the calipers can be screwed into the two small holes to get the disc to pop off the assembly if necessary, see pic...
C: Disconnect sway bar from the end links. 14mm wrench and hex wrench.
D: Disconnect balljoint from lower suspension arm. 2 17mm bolts.
E: Disconnect adjustment arm from brake assembly.
F: Pop axles through the brake assembly. Use a piece of wood and hammer to hit the axles straight towards the engine. This may take a lot of hits, keep at it, it will free up, and pop through.
G: Remove right hand (passenger) axle. There are a few ways to do this, the one I used was to remove the axle carrier and just pull the axle out. This first pic is looking through the crossmember at the back of the engine. From below, remove the following
1: Two carrier bolts (removed already)
2: Support brackets nut (removed already)
3: Short support bracket end bolt
4: Long support bracket end bolt
Now, once the bracket is loose (pop it off the block with a screwdriver so it's free) just pull on the entire axle assembly, and it will dance out of the tranny.
Here's the whole thing. I think this way is much easier than the BGB way. Thanks to Shane Craddock for the idea on this.
H: Unbolt rear motor mount through bolt.
I: If the car has ABS, detatch ABS line from the crossmember. 1 10mm bolt on each side. Also, be careful to move the ABS line above the swaybar, or you might damage it when you drop the crossmember.
J: Unbolt assembly arm from car body.
The left arrow points to a crossmember bolt that's coming up next. The arrow on the right shows you a better shot of the assembly arm.
K: Time to drop the crossmember. Break the bolts loose, but do not take them out yet.
Now is a good time to get another person to help, or use a jack to support the crossmember. Undo the four bolts the rest of the way. Lower the crossmember and pull it out.
3: Here's two pics showing you what you should have...
That's right, we're leaving the drivers side axle attatched during the drop. We'll get it out later.
